Okay, guys, this is a pretty easy little hack, right here.
I have verified this works on an XR15 remote, which I believe is the latest. Remember, you’re programming the box, not the remote.
A search box will come up while you’re doing this; pay no attention to it, just follow these simply instructions:
Hit EXIT -> EXIT -> EXIT (EXIT three times, quickly and deliberately)
Type 0030 (this is where the search box will come up, ignore it)
Press the ENTER button (the button that glows white in the middle of the directional pad)
Your PageUp button will now fast forward 30 seconds, and your PageDown button will rewind 15 seconds.
NOTE: This will NOT work on Xfinity On Demand titles. It will only work on DVR-recorded programs and live (buffered) television.
Hope this helps some folks.
Okay, so I just got a Roku Streaming Stick for my dad, and I wanted to set it up so it could use PLEX, which is what I use to stream everything from my PC.
I was going nuts, because it kept telling me it couldn’t log into the server, because the server was “unauthorized”, even though I let it accept non-secure connections.
The fix, courtesy of gsparx on Reddit, is the following (the following example is if you want to get it to play on devices connected to your home network):
In the PLEX app on your computer, go to Settings -> Server -> Network. There will be a box that says “List of IP addresses and networks that are allowed without authorization”. Enter 192.168.1.0/24 into that box. You may need to refresh, but your Roku should now be able to access your server. You may have to enter a different IP depending on your configuration, but that one worked for me, since, again, I’m using it on my home network.
I hope this helps some people. It was driving me nuts.
Some of you playing on consoles may notice that Assassin’s Creed: Origins is freezing up on you ever now and then (or a lot, depending on when you’re playing). The problem is the same as it was for AC: Unity — it’s the online component. Too much online stuff going on at once. The fix? Simple. Play the game offline. Disconnect from the Internet. Then you’ll lose the freezing (also, the online features, of course).
If you’re at all like me, the fact that your iPhone constantly autocorrects the f-word so it reads “ducking”, you’ve probably wondered if there’s any way you can get the damned thing to ever autocorrect the word properly — fuck, fucker, fucking, etc.
I HAVE THE ANSWER.
Add two contacts. Just fake, empty contacts. Name one (first name, last name) “fuck, fucker” and name the other “fucked, fucking”.
Now go and try to type some text in something. Try to mess up the word “fuck” a little bit. It should now autocorrect to the above listed profanities instead of defaulting to “ducking” and so on.
Just a quick tip for anyone still playing Final Fantasy XV, as I am…there’s an infinite sprint exploit. Well, not really an exploit, as it’s built-in, but a little trick. Turn on your stamina bar on your HUD. Now, hold onto the sprint button (Circle for me on PS4). Right when your stamina is about to run out, let go of the sprint button. Noctis will flash green for a second and your stamina will be completely refilled. Meaning, theoretically, you can sprint forever without resting. Hope this helps someone.
Well, my many years of free hosting are over; 3 Media Web is moving on to bigger and better things, KungFuDesign is no more, and I’m left with paying (damn you, Internet!) to keep kiplange.com going on GoDaddy.com.
Which brings me to the second part of the post. It’s wicked (or hella, just pick one) easy to put up a bulletin board using GoDaddy. Should I put one up? Is it worth it? What would we talk about? My number one hits come from links to nude photo shoots; should we talk about Olivia Black’s tats in detail? I don’t know. Tell me what you think.
Okay, many of you may be trying to play your Steam games in Dolby Digital Live or DTS-Connect with no luck. Your troubles are over. The fix is right here.
All you need to do is download the following file:
Just download that and follow the instructions. Voila. Most of your games should be running DDL/DTS-Connect just fine now. Remember to keep the *original* system files should you need to reinstall them (they’re included) to play certain games.
I know of two games that have issues with this fix — Far Cry 4 and Watch Dogs — but all you have to do is go back to the old system files –which is easy — and then back to the edited ones again when you want to play another game.
I sincerely hope this fix helps a lot of people out. I know I was going nuts trying to get my games to run in DDL/DTS-Connect, now that Windows supports the unlocked Realtek HD drivers again.
Also, I said “most Steam games”; I didn’t mean you NEED to have Steam for this fix to work. This fix should work for any game, whether you got it off Steam or not.
Dear Prince’s Estate: Please don’t send me threatening emails about this. These two posts are tributes and will be taken down shortly and permanently deleted.
If you have onboard Realtek HD sound, and you’ve updated to Win 10 — even if you’re using the unlocked drivers — you will notice that it is no longer able to play anything in Dolby Digital Live or DTS Connect. The options are still available, but testing them produces a “Failed to play test tone” error message, and switching to DD or DTS through optical out (or any form of output) gives you dead silence when trying to play a file, or a “This device does not support the selected format” error message.
THIS IS A KNOWN BUG. It is *not* your drivers. Don’t go crazy uninstalling and reinstalling drivers. The fix is at least more than three weeks out, unfortunately, even for those in the Windows Insider program. It is being worked on, however. You can find the thread for it right here:
Realtek HD ALC892 – DTS Connect not working
Currently my workaround is to send HDMI out to my TV through my graphics card (nVidia GeForce 980Ti), then Toslink from the TV to receiver, and this way I can at least get AC3 (Dolby Digital) to work; unfortunately, I can’t get it to work in VLC Player, only in the supplied Windows 10 “Movies and TV” app. It’s annoying, but I’m not shelling out money for a new sound card when it’s a known bug being worked out that will eventually get resolved.
Good luck to all of you having the same problem.